Something different from the super fussy baking: this is the recipe which jolted me out of a cooking slump. Very easy, not too many ingredients, lots of flavour. It’s the silky, rich peppers which are the star here. Chicken joints are braised with them and no additional liquid: together, they release the perfect amount of … Continue reading
Hello. How are you? I’m okay. The world is really fucking grim. Let’s make ice cream. I love non-sequiturs! This ice cream is from Ruby Tandoh’s second book, Flavour, and it’s gorgeous. The base is fresh and milky, with the perfect amount of cinnamon to honey. The first thing you taste is the bright gold … Continue reading
Another wonderful preserve from Beatrice Ojakangas, this time a sweet, simple rose gold jam, one of my favourites. Perfect for brightening up the cold months. ‘You’ll love the aroma of this jam cooking,’ Ojakangas writes. Yes. Sour pink rhubarb, sunny pineapple and deep, rich vanilla come together in an unexpectedly lovely way: it’s truly lovely, so syrupy and … Continue reading
Another caramel thing, but who’s complaining? I’ve wanted to try this recipe for years and here it is: soft golden caramels with a cosy apple flavour. It’s coming up to Bonfire Night, which is when British people set things on fire when it is cold (as opposed to summer, when we set our food on fire to make the … Continue reading
This is wonderfully ugly. Garlicky, herby, glossy with oil. I don’t think beauty should be always required of food because beauty is not a reliable indicator of flavour. I am all for appreciating the simplicity of fresh, whole vegetables, but if we take that too far then everything would be eaten raw and unseasoned, a still life, not … Continue reading
These are classic British jam doughnuts, sugar-crusted and round-bellied. Doughnuts are a bit of a faff, but I think they’re worth it if you have the time, energy, and appetite. To me, they unite two skills to great effect: yeast doughs and deep frying. I heartily recommend roping in helpers, since even the smallest possible batch makes … Continue reading
Well, what is there to say? I’ve spent the past few months being rather busy, and then the past month feeling acutely embarrassed about being British. The weather, at least, has been positively favonian, which won’t last. Best to appreciate the fleeting warmth with some iced tea. Thai tea, if you haven’t had it, is burnt … Continue reading
An orange ice cream lolly (what Americans neatly call a creamsicle) in soft set jelly form with just-sweetened creamy yoghurt, freshly squeezed mandarin juice, and fragrant zest. Still melt-in-the-mouth and refreshing, but even brighter. Recently I’ve been craving those orange yoghurt or milk drinks by Betagen and Dutch Mill that you get in Thailand. I am aware … Continue reading
A soothing, simple bowl of well-flavoured rice and stock topped with fresh herbs and maybe some cooked shredded meat. This is a savoury yet light dish with lots of bright leafy herbs, but listen: sharing this dish at this time of year, for me, is about a change of palate and a hint of nostalgia. I … Continue reading
Vanilla is my favourite spice. Forget thinking of it as timid and beige–forget it, alright? It’s beautiful, dark, full, and rich, and should be respected. Marshmallows bear this perfume wonderfully. These ones have a fluffy egg white base, which means they melt slowly and perfectly into a mug of hot chocolate. There are a bunch of ways to make … Continue reading
The Furious Pear Pie 
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